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Kathmandu's Hidden Temples

Kathmandu, often called the “City of Temples,” holds far more spiritual treasures than what meets the eye on typical tourist itineraries. While the UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, and Boudhanath draw crowds of visitors, the valley harbors countless hidden temples and sacred spaces that remain largely undiscovered by the average traveler. These hidden gems offer authentic glimpses into Nepal’s rich spiritual heritage, away from the tourist crowds and commercialization.

Seto Machhen-dranath Temple

Tucked away in a quiet courtyard, completely surrounded by buildings in the heart of Kathmandu, lies the Seto Machhen-dranath Temple, also known as Jan Bahal. This hidden sanctuary offers a peaceful oasis amidst the chaos of “Dustmandu,” as locals affectionately call their city. To find this temple, you must navigate through narrow alleyways and pass through a blue archway that leads to an entirely different world.

The temple is sheltered from the dust and traffic outside by a beautiful large gate that appears to protect it from the bustling city. Inside, visitors can walk around the temple, touching doors on each of the four walls before continuing to the next, completing a full circumambulation. The remarkable quiet of this courtyard, with only the sounds of pigeons cooing and people murmuring, creates a stark contrast to the busy streets just beyond the blue archway.

Bajrayogini Temple

Located in Sankhu, a quaint Newari town on the outskirts of Kathmandu, the Bajrayogini Temple stands as a masterpiece of 16th-century tantric architecture. Built by King Pratap Malla, this temple is dedicated to Goddess Bajrayogini, also known as Ugra Tara, making it a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists.

The three-story main temple showcases the pinnacle of Newari craftsmanship with its intricate carvings and attention to detail. Unlike the more famous temples in Kathmandu, Bajrayogini Temple offers visitors the chance to appreciate ancient Nepalese architecture without the crowds. The temple complex includes several smaller temples, stupas, wells, and caves that add to its mystical charm. The surrounding area, with its peaceful atmosphere and spiritual energy, provides a perfect setting for those seeking a deeper connection with Nepal’s tantric traditions.

Chandeshwori Temple

Situated 26 kilometers northeast of Kathmandu Valley, the Chandeshwori Temple dates back to the 17th century and is believed to mark the spot where Goddess Parvati defeated a demon named Chanda. This stunning example of Newari architecture features ornate wooden carvings and a remarkable mural of Lord Bhairava on one of its walls, claimed to be the largest graffiti in the Nepal Mandala.

The three-story temple complex is crowned with a golden kalasa and gold-painted torans sliding from its gliding roofs. Within the premises, visitors can explore several smaller temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesh, and other deities. The temple’s entrance plaza features a beautifully crafted gate with a statue of the angry goddess slaying the demon. Nestled amidst pleasant, lush jungles, Chandeshwori Temple offers not just spiritual solace but also opportunities for peaceful picnics in the surrounding woods.

Budanilkantha Temple

The Budanilkantha Temple houses one of Nepal’s most unique religious artifacts—a massive 5-meter tall stone statue of Lord Vishnu in a reclining position, floating in the middle of a recessed pool of water. This open-air Hindu temple, believed to have been carved and brought to its current location in the 7th century during the reign of Vishnu Gupta, features the largest stone carving in Nepal.

The glistening black statue depicts Vishnu in a deep slumber, lying on the coils of the cosmic serpent Shesha, with the goddess Lakshmi at his feet and Lord Brahma emerging from a lotus springing from Vishnu’s navel. A fascinating legend surrounds this temple: it is believed that no reigning monarch should ever visit the temple or come face-to-face with the lord’s statue, or else they will die. Despite numerous requests to study the statue’s structure to understand why it floats, these have been declined, adding to the mystery of this sacred site.

Druk Amitabh Mountain Monastery

Also known as Seto Gumba or White Monastery, the Druk Amitabh Mountain Monastery is one of the most architecturally impressive monasteries in Nepal. Located on a northwestern hill near Swayambhunath Stupa, this hidden gem offers a perfect blend of spiritual serenity and architectural beauty.

The monastery’s walls are adorned with exquisite Tibetan murals, paintings, and statues depicting Buddhist teachings. Beyond its religious significance, the monastery serves as an excellent viewpoint to see the landscape of the beautiful Kathmandu Valley. On clear days, visitors can enjoy fantastic views of the central Himalayas, including Langtang Lirung and Dorje Lakpa. The monastery’s setting near the jungles also makes it a suitable destination for a little hike or a peaceful picnic, easily accessible on foot, by bus, or taxi.

The Sacred Yogini Temples of Kathmandu Valley

The Kathmandu Valley is home to several ancient Yogini temples that represent the profound Vajrayana Buddhist tradition. These temples, dedicated to various forms of the divine feminine energy, remain largely overlooked by tourists but hold immense significance for practitioners and pilgrims.

Balaju Purano Guhyeshwori

Located roughly five kilometers north of Swayambhu, beneath the sacred Mount Nagarjuna, Balaju Purano Guhyeshwori is considered the original site from which the lotus emerged from the prehistoric Kathmandu lakebed, according to the Swayambhu Purana. The temple houses a small Newar shrine with a well covered by a lotus-shaped brass plate featuring a distinctive hole at its center. Pilgrims can circumambulate the shrine, lighting butter lamps and making traditional offerings.

Pashupatinath Guhyeshwori

Nestled on the northern bank of the Bagmati River near Pashupatinath, Guhyeshwori is a sacred Shakti Pitha reserved exclusively for Hindus. Built in 1654 by King Pratapamalla, this temple enshrines the site where Sati’s yoni is believed to have descended to Earth. The temple features a naturally-formed yoni-shaped structure from which saline water perpetually flows, creating a sacred pool that devotees believe holds blessings.

Sankhu Vajrayogini

The Sankhu Vajrayogini Temple, located in the Newar town of Sankhu in the northeast corner of the Kathmandu Valley, predates the town itself, with origins dating back to the 7th century AD. Originally a monastery known as Gum Vihara, this site played a crucial role in spreading Buddhism from Nepal to Tibet. The main temple enshrines a representation of Ugra Tara, or Ekajati, said to have been brought from Bengal in the 14th century. The temple complex includes several caves and features the “Water of the Kalpa” and “Fire of the Kalpa,” both believed to be eternal.

Pharping Vajrayogini

Pharping became home to esteemed Newar masters Dharmamati and Vagishvara in the 11th century, both disciples of the Mahasiddha Naropa. The Tibetan translator Marpa Lotsawa visited the Pharping Vajrayogini temple on at least three occasions during his journeys to and from India. The temple stands as a timeless symbol of the transmission of profound dakini teachings. Located near the start of the main street leading uphill through Pharping, the Vajrayogini statue is found on the first floor of the temple, reached via a small staircase.

Bidhjeswori

The Bidhjeswori Vajrayogini Temple graces the banks of the Bisnumati River, nestled between the vibrant neighborhoods of Thamel and Swayambhu. Once at the center of a great cremation ground visited by great siddhas like Thangthong Gyalpo, Marpa Lotsawa, and Vanaratna, the temple is dedicated to a specific aspect of Vajrayogini called Akashayogini, “the Flying Yogini,” through which the Indian Mahasiddha Maitripa attained realization.

Chapagaon Vajravarahi

Near the village of Chapagaon at the southern extremity of the Kathmandu Valley lies a shrine venerating Vajravarahi, the fiercer aspect of Vajrayogini. Local lore tells that the wrathful goddess emerged from a sacred pond that still graces the vicinity. The shrine is ensconced within a luxuriant forest teeming with wildlife, and it is believed that the leaves from the trees in this unique forest never venture beyond its boundaries, as if a protective sphere envelops the area.

Godawari

Located in the southeast of Kathmandu in the Lalitpur district, Godawari features a small water pond called Godavari Kunda with perennial water flow throughout the year. Legend has it that a Siddha with miraculous powers practiced meditation here, journeying daily to the Godavari River in India to collect water. After twelve years, Goddess Sarasvati appeared and provided the river’s water at his location, creating the sacred pond that exists today.


When exploring Kathmandu’s hidden temples, it’s important to respect local customs and traditions. Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and remove shoes before entering temple premises. Always ask for permission before taking photographs, especially inside temples where photography is often prohibited.

Many of these hidden temples are located in residential areas or require walking through narrow alleyways. Hiring a local guide can be invaluable for finding these sites and understanding their historical and cultural significance. The best time to visit is early in the morning when the temples are less crowded and the atmosphere is most peaceful.

Remember that some temples, like Guhyeshwori at Pashupatinath, are reserved exclusively for Hindus. Always check accessibility before planning your visit and be prepared to respect these restrictions.

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